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Best Varroa Mite Treatments (2025)

If you have bees, you have mites. Here's how to manage them—before they kill your colony.

Updated: December 2025 • 15 min read

⚠️ The Hard Truth

The 2024-2025 beekeeping survey showed 55.6% colony losses—the highest ever recorded. Varroa mites and the viruses they transmit are the primary cause. If you don't monitor and treat, your bees will likely die. This isn't optional.

🎯 Quick Answer

For most beginners: Oxalic acid (vaporized or dribbled) during broodless periods and Formic Pro during warmer months is the most effective combination. Rotate treatments to prevent resistance. Monitor monthly with alcohol washes—treat when counts exceed 3 mites per 100 bees (3%).

In This Article

Why You Must Treat for Varroa

Varroa destructor isn't just annoying—it's an existential threat to your colony. These mites reproduce inside capped brood cells, feeding on developing pupae and transmitting deadly viruses including Deformed Wing Virus (DWV) and Acute Bee Paralysis Virus.

Mite populations double every 3-4 weeks during brood season. A colony that starts spring with 50 mites can have over 3,000 by August. At that point, the viruses they've vectored have already compromised the "winter bees"—the physiologically distinct bees that need to survive until spring.

The math is brutal: An untreated colony in most of North America has a near-100% chance of dying within 18 months of infestation. Treatment-free beekeeping exists, but it requires years of genetic selection and typically still results in 50%+ annual losses while you're developing survivor stock.

For beginners: treat. You can explore treatment-free approaches once you have the skills to manage the inevitable losses.

How to Monitor: The Alcohol Wash

You can't manage what you don't measure. The alcohol wash is the gold standard for accuracy:

Alcohol Wash Method

  1. Collect approximately 300 bees (½ cup) from a brood frame—not the frame with the queen
  2. Place bees in a jar with 70% isopropyl alcohol (or windshield washer fluid)
  3. Shake vigorously for 60 seconds to dislodge mites
  4. Strain through mesh into a white container and count mites
  5. Calculate: (mites ÷ bees) × 100 = infestation percentage

Note: Yes, this kills approximately 300 bees. A strong colony has 50,000+. The information is worth the sacrifice—it tells you whether your entire colony will survive.

Sugar roll alternative: Non-lethal but less accurate. Sugar rolls typically underestimate mite loads by 30-50%, especially in humid conditions. If you use sugar rolls, treat at lower thresholds to compensate.

How often to monitor: Monthly during brood season (April-September in most areas). More frequently if counts are rising.

Treatment Thresholds

Spring/Summer (Apr-Jul)

≥1% = Consider Treatment

3 mites per 300 bees

Late Summer/Fall (Aug-Oct)

≥3% = Treat Immediately

9 mites per 300 bees

Why lower thresholds in spring? Mite populations will explode during the summer buildup. A 1% count in April can become 10%+ by August if untreated. Early intervention prevents the exponential growth.

Why August matters most: This is when colonies raise "winter bees"—long-lived bees with enhanced fat bodies that must survive until spring. If mites infest these bees, they'll be virus-compromised and die mid-winter, even if your mite counts drop afterward.

Treatment Comparison Chart

Treatment Temp Range Kills Under Caps? Honey Supers? Best Use
Oxalic Acid >40°F No Yes (if uncapped) Winter/broodless
Formic Pro 50-85°F Yes Yes Spring/summer
Apivar No strict limits No No Fall (check resistance)
Apiguard 60-105°F No No Warm weather
HopGuard 3 >50°F No Yes Nucs/packages

Oxalic Acid — Our Top Pick for Winter

Best for: Broodless periods

97% efficacy on phoretic mites when applied correctly

Top Pick

Oxalic acid is a naturally occurring compound (found in spinach, rhubarb) that's devastatingly effective against Varroa. It works by contact—mites absorb the acid through their feet and die within 24-48 hours.

The catch: Oxalic acid does NOT penetrate wax cappings. It only kills "phoretic" mites—those riding on adult bees. During brood season, 70-80% of mites are hiding in capped cells, so efficacy drops dramatically.

Application methods:

  • Vaporization: Most effective. Uses a heated wand to vaporize oxalic acid crystals inside the hive. Requires a respirator and full protection—oxalic acid vapor is a lung irritant.
  • Dribble: Oxalic acid dissolved in sugar syrup, dribbled between frames. Easier but less effective and can stress bees if overused.

Best timing:

  • Late fall/early winter when the colony is naturally broodless (December-January in northern climates)
  • During a summer brood break (after requeening or induced break)
  • On new packages before they start laying

What we recommend: The Varrox Vaporizer or similar electric wands. Budget option: the Oxalic Acid Vaporizer from Brushy Mountain. Always use API-BIOXAL or pharmaceutical-grade oxalic acid.

Formic Pro — Best for Summer Treatment

Best for: Mid-season treatment with honey supers

The ONLY treatment that penetrates cappings to kill reproducing mites

Kills Under Caps

Formic acid is the only registered treatment that penetrates wax cappings to kill mites reproducing inside brood cells. This makes it uniquely effective during brood season when other treatments only reach a fraction of the mite population.

Critical temperature constraint: Do NOT use if daily highs will exceed 85°F (29°C). Formic acid releases faster in heat, and elevated concentrations can kill queens. Check your 10-day forecast before applying.

Application: Formic Pro comes as pre-measured strips. Two strips placed on top bars, left for 14 days (or 20 days for extended-release). No feeding during treatment.

Side effects:

  • Queen mortality risk of 2-4% (higher in hot weather)
  • Temporary brood break is common
  • Strong odor that can trigger robbing if entrance isn't reduced
  • Worker bees may beard outside the hive during treatment

Pro tip: Ensure good ventilation and reduce the entrance during treatment. Some beekeepers prop up the outer cover slightly to increase airflow.

Apivar (Amitraz) — Synthetic but Effective

Best for: Fall treatment when temps are unstable

No temperature constraints, but resistance is spreading

Check Resistance

Apivar strips release amitraz slowly over 6-8 weeks, providing extended mite control without temperature restrictions. It's been a workhorse treatment for years.

The growing problem: Amitraz resistance is now documented in multiple US states. Before relying on Apivar, check with your local bee club or extension office about resistance in your area. Some regions report efficacy dropping below 50%.

Application: Two strips hung between brood frames, left for 42-56 days. Must be removed before honey supers are added—amitraz cannot contaminate honey for human consumption.

Best practice: Don't use Apivar more than once per year, and rotate with other treatment types to slow resistance development. If you used Apivar last fall, use formic or oxalic this year.

Apiguard (Thymol) — Organic Alternative

Best for: Beekeepers wanting organic options

Temperature dependent, requires warmth for bee distribution

Apiguard is a thymol-based gel (derived from thyme) that bees remove and distribute throughout the hive. It's organic and doesn't leave residues, but efficacy is more variable than other treatments.

Temperature requirements: Best between 60-77°F (15-25°C). Below 60°F, bees won't remove the gel effectively. Above 77°F, evaporation is too rapid.

Side effects:

  • Queen often stops laying temporarily during treatment
  • Bees may abscond if colony is weak
  • Can affect honey taste if used near harvest

Application: Two 50g applications, 2 weeks apart. Place gel tray on top bars in the brood area. Remove honey supers during treatment.

HopGuard 3 — Best for Packages and Nucs

Best for: New colonies, safe during honey flow

Uses hop beta acids—safe but messy

HopGuard uses beta acids from hops (yes, the beer ingredient) to kill mites on contact. It's the only treatment besides oxalic acid that can be used during honey production, making it useful for packages installed during the flow.

The reality: HopGuard is messy—the strips feel like damp cardboard and leave residue. Efficacy is moderate (50-70%), so it's best used as a supplement rather than primary treatment.

Best use case: Treating packages or nucs when you can't use formic (too cold) or don't want to wait for a broodless period for oxalic.

Annual Treatment Rotation (Recommended)

Sample Annual Protocol

Spring Monitor with alcohol wash. If >1%, apply Formic Pro (if temps allow) or Apiguard
Mid-Summer Monitor monthly. Treat if thresholds exceeded. Consider brood break + oxalic
August Critical treatment window. Formic Pro or Apivar to protect winter bees
Late Fall Final monitoring. Prepare for winter treatment
Winter Oxalic acid vaporization when broodless (typically December-January)

Key principle: Rotate between chemical classes to prevent resistance. If you use amitraz (Apivar) one year, use organic acids the next.

Don't Wait Until You See Symptoms

By the time you see deformed wings, crawling bees, or a rapidly dwindling population, it's often too late. The damage from Varroa-vectored viruses happens weeks before symptoms appear. Monitor proactively, treat by the numbers, and your colonies will thrive.

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