HOW-TO GUIDE

How to Install a Package of Bees

Your step-by-step guide to getting 10,000 bees from a wooden box into their new home—without panic.

Updated December 2025 • 12 min read

🎯 Key Takeaways

In This Guide

Installing your first package of bees is one of beekeeping's most memorable moments. You've got a screened box buzzing with 10,000 strangers, a caged queen they've never met, and somehow you need to convince everyone to move into a wooden box and start a family. It sounds chaotic—and it kind of is—but packages are installed successfully thousands of times every spring. Here's exactly how to do it.

What Is a Package of Bees?

A package is a screened wooden or plastic box containing approximately 3 pounds of worker bees (roughly 10,000-12,000 bees) plus a separately caged, mated queen. There's also a can of sugar syrup for feeding during transport.

The workers and queen are typically from different colonies—they don't know each other yet. The queen is kept in a small cage so the workers can get accustomed to her pheromones before she's released. This "introduction period" is critical for acceptance.

Packages are the most common way beginners get their first bees. They're widely available in spring (March-May depending on region), relatively affordable ($150-200), and easier to find than nucleus colonies (nucs). Compare packages vs. nucs vs. swarms here.

Before Your Bees Arrive

Preparation is everything. Don't wait until the day your bees arrive to get ready.

1-2 Weeks Before

Day Before

Pickup Day Tips

When you pick up your package:

Two Installation Methods

There are two common approaches to getting bees from the package into the hive. Both work well—choose based on your comfort level.

Method 1: Direct Release (Shake)

Shake/pour bees directly into the hive. Queen cage goes between frames. Faster, more dramatic, works great.

Most Common

Method 2: Indirect Release

Set entire package in hive, let bees walk out on their own. Gentler, slower, less handling.

Beginner Friendly

Method 1: Direct Release (Shake Method)

This is the most common installation method. It's faster and gets bees onto frames immediately.

Step-by-Step Instructions

1

Prepare the Hive

Remove 4-5 frames from the center of the brood box to create a cavity. Set them aside nearby. Leave the outer frames in place.

2

Spray the Package

Mist the bees through the screen with 1:1 sugar syrup. This gives them something to eat and makes them slightly sticky so they fly less. Don't soak them—just a light misting.

3

Remove the Feeder Can

Pry off the top cover of the package. The feeder can is held in place by the pressure of the cover. Give the package a firm bump on the ground to knock bees off the can, then pull it out. Set it aside (not on the ground where bees will cluster on it).

4

Remove the Queen Cage

The queen cage is usually suspended from a metal strip or attached to the feeder can. Pull it out gently. Cover the hole in the package with the wood cover or your hand to prevent bees escaping.

5

Check the Queen

Look at the queen cage—is she alive and moving? She should be. Note whether there's a candy plug or cork blocking the exit hole. If candy plug: bees will eat through in 2-5 days. If cork only: you may need to remove it later or replace with a mini marshmallow.

6

Install the Queen Cage

Suspend the queen cage between two center frames, candy-end UP (so dead attendant bees don't block the exit). Use a rubber band, wire, or the metal strip to secure it. The screen side should face outward so workers can feed and contact the queen.

7

Shake in the Bees

This is the big moment. Bump the package firmly to knock bees to the bottom. Turn it upside down over the open cavity in the hive and shake vigorously. Pour/shake bees directly onto the frames. Most will fall into the hive; some will fly. That's fine—they'll find their way in.

8

Replace Frames

Gently lower the removed frames back into position. Go slowly—there are bees everywhere. It's okay if you can't get all frames back perfectly; close is good enough. Bees will reorganize.

9

Close Up

Place the inner cover and outer cover on the hive. If using a hive-top feeder, install it now and fill with syrup. Leave the nearly-empty package in front of the hive entrance—remaining bees will walk in overnight.

Method 2: Indirect Release

This gentler method lets bees walk out of the package on their own time. It's less dramatic and requires less handling.

Step-by-Step Instructions

  1. 1. Remove 4-5 center frames from the brood box to make room for the package.
  2. 2. Remove the feeder can and queen cage as described above.
  3. 3. Install the queen cage between two of the remaining frames, candy-end up.
  4. 4. Set the entire package (without can or queen) into the open cavity, hole facing up.
  5. 5. Place inner cover with the notch opening over the package hole so bees can exit.
  6. 6. Add feeder and close up the hive.
  7. 7. After 2-3 days, open the hive, remove the empty package, and replace the frames you removed.

This method is slower but involves less shaking and bee-flying. Some beginners find it less stressful.

The First Week After Installation

Day 1-2: Leave Them Alone

Resist the urge to check. Bees are stressed from transport and need time to settle. They're clustering around the queen cage, eating syrup, and starting to explore their new home. Disturbing them now just adds stress.

Day 3-5: Check Queen Release

Open the hive briefly to check if the queen has been released from her cage. Look for:

Day 7-10: First Real Inspection

A week after installation, do a gentle inspection looking for:

⚠️ No Eggs After 10-14 Days?

If you don't see eggs within two weeks and can't find the queen, she may have died or failed to be accepted. Contact your supplier—most will replace a failed queen within a certain window. Don't wait too long; a queenless package can't survive.

Feeding Schedule

Keep feeding 1:1 syrup until:

New packages can consume a gallon of syrup per week. Keep the feeder full. Running out sets them back significantly.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Bees clustering outside the hive

Normal in warm weather—it's called "bearding." If they're clustered at the entrance and won't go in for days, check that the entrance isn't blocked and the queen is inside. Spray them with syrup and they'll usually march in.

Bees fighting at the queen cage

Some aggression toward the caged queen is normal—they don't know her yet. Biting the cage, balling up around it, or trying to sting through the screen happens. If it's severe and persistent after 3+ days, the queen may have issues. Give it time; most colonies accept the queen once she's releasing pheromones from inside the hive.

Queen is dead in the cage

Contact your supplier immediately. Most reputable sellers will replace a dead-on-arrival queen. Don't release her—the workers will reject a dead queen and the body can spread disease.

Bees absconding (leaving entirely)

Rare but it happens, especially if the hive location is poor (too hot, too exposed, bad smells). Newly installed packages have no comb or brood to anchor them. Make sure the queen is released before they're likely to leave, feed heavily, and ensure the hive site is suitable.

They're not taking the syrup

If there's a strong natural nectar flow, they may prefer the real thing. Otherwise, check your feeder—is it working? Can bees access it? Is the syrup fermented or moldy? Fresh 1:1 syrup in a functioning feeder should be irresistible to a new package.

You've Got This

Package installation looks intimidating in videos—10,000 bees flying everywhere, a nervous beekeeper shaking a box, chaos. In practice, it's surprisingly manageable. The bees are disoriented, full of syrup, and queenless (so less defensive). Most are focused on finding the queen, not stinging you.

Your main job is to get them into the hive, hang the queen cage properly, and start feeding. Everything else—building comb, caring for the queen, foraging—the bees will figure out themselves. They've been doing this for millions of years.

Welcome to beekeeping. The first few weeks are the hardest, but also the most exciting. Trust the process, keep feeding, and enjoy watching your colony build from scratch.

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