How to Catch a Swarm of Bees: Free Bees Guide

There's nothing quite like catching your first swarm. A massive cluster of bees hanging from a branch, free for the taking—it feels like finding treasure. Swarms are one of the best ways to get bees: they're free, they're local (already adapted to your climate), and they're eager to build a new home. Here's how to capture them safely.

What Is a Swarm?

A swarm is a honey bee colony's way of reproducing. When a hive becomes too crowded, roughly half the workers leave with the old queen to start a new colony. They gorge on honey before departing, then cluster temporarily—on a branch, fence post, car mirror, or anywhere convenient—while scout bees search for a permanent home.

The cluster you see isn't their final destination. They're just waiting, sometimes for hours, sometimes for days. Once scouts agree on a location (a hollow tree, an attic, a vacant hive), the whole swarm lifts off and moves in.

Your job as a swarm catcher is to intercept them during this waiting period and offer them a better option: your hive.

Why Swarms Are Safe to Catch

Swarms look terrifying—a buzzing ball of 15,000 bees isn't exactly welcoming. But they're actually remarkably gentle:

No home to defend – Defensive behavior is about protecting brood and honey stores. Swarms have neither.
Full of honey – Workers gorge before swarming. A bee stuffed with honey is physically less able to sting (try curling up when you're bloated).
Focused on the mission – They want to find a home, not fight. You're not a threat to their goal.
Queen is vulnerable – Their priority is protecting the queen, which means staying clustered and calm.

That said, always wear protection. Swarms are calm until they're not—rough handling, getting bees stuck in hair or clothing, or a queen in distress can change the mood quickly.

Equipment Needed

Essential Gear

✓ Box with frames – A nuc box or full hive body. Deep frames preferred; drawn comb is ideal but not required.
✓ Bee brush – For gently brushing bees into your container.
✓ White sheet – To lay under the swarm or in front of the hive entrance.
✓ Pruning shears/loppers – If the swarm is on a branch you can cut.
✓ Protective gear – Veil at minimum, full suit recommended for beginners.
✓ Spray bottle with sugar water – Light misting calms bees and weighs down fliers.

Nice to Have

○ Ladder – For elevated swarms (be careful!)
○ Cardboard box – Backup container if you don't have a hive box handy
○ Ratchet straps – To secure the box for transport
○ Lemongrass oil – A few drops in the box can attract bees (mimics queen pheromone)

Step-by-Step Swarm Capture

The ideal swarm is clustered on a low branch you can reach and cut. Here's the process:

Assess the Situation

How high is the swarm? Can you safely reach it? Is it on something you can cut or shake? How big is the cluster? Is it definitely honey bees (not wasps or hornets)? Take a moment to plan before diving in.

Set Up Your Box

Position your hive box or nuc directly under the swarm if possible. Remove a few frames to make room. If using lemongrass oil, put a few drops inside. Lay a white sheet under and around the box—it helps you see the queen if she falls and makes it easier for stragglers to find the entrance.

Give a Light Mist

Spray the cluster lightly with sugar water. This weighs them down slightly and gives them something to do (lick each other) instead of fly. Don't soak them.

Get the Bees into the Box

If on a branch: Hold the box underneath and give the branch one firm shake. The cluster drops into the box. If you can cut the branch, even better—cut it and lower the whole thing into the box.

If on a flat surface: Use the bee brush to gently scoop bees into the box, or hold the box opening against the cluster and brush them in.

Watch for the Queen

If you got the queen, the remaining bees will march toward the box, fanning at the entrance (exposing their Nasonov gland, which releases "come here" pheromone). If bees are returning to the original spot and re-clustering, the queen isn't in your box yet. Try again.

Wait for Stragglers

Leave the box in place for 30 minutes to a few hours. Flying bees will return to where they last saw the cluster; if your box is there, they'll find their way in. Late afternoon or evening is ideal—fewer bees flying, and they'll settle in overnight.

Close Up and Transport

Once most bees are inside, close the entrance with screen or foam (not airtight—they need ventilation). Transport gently to your apiary. If frames shifted, don't worry—just get them home safely.

Difficult Locations

High in a tree

Use a ladder if safe, or a long pole with a bag/bucket attached. Sometimes it's better to set up a bait hive nearby and hope they choose it. Don't risk injury for free bees.

Inside a wall or structure

This isn't a swarm—it's an established colony. Removal requires cutting open the structure ("cutout"). That's a whole different process and often best left to experienced beekeepers.

On a car or fence post

Brush or scoop bees directly into your box. Work gently—flat surfaces mean bees spread out more and the queen can be anywhere in the cluster.

Spread across multiple branches

Find the densest part of the cluster—that's likely where the queen is. Focus on getting that section first.

Installing Your Swarm

Once home, installing a swarm is similar to installing a package, but even easier since the bees already accept their queen.

1. Set up your hive in its permanent location with frames and foundation.
2. If bees are in a nuc box, transfer frames directly to the hive body (like installing a nuc).
3. If bees are in a temporary container, dump/shake them into the hive or onto a sheet in front of the entrance—they'll march in.
4. Use the smallest entrance reducer setting.
5. Start feeding 1:1 syrup immediately. Swarms have no comb, no stores, nothing. They need resources to build.
6. Leave them alone for a week, then inspect for eggs to confirm the queen is laying.

The Sheet Trick

Many beekeepers dump swarms onto a white sheet laid in front of the hive entrance, then watch 15,000 bees march up the sheet and into their new home. It's mesmerizing and helps you spot the queen as she walks in. Try it at least once.

How to Find Swarms

Swarms won't knock on your door (usually). Here's how to get the call:

Join swarm lists – Many local bee clubs maintain call lists. When someone reports a swarm, beekeepers on the list get notified. Sign up!
Tell everyone you keep bees – Neighbors, coworkers, family. "If you ever see a ball of bees, call me!" People love having someone to call instead of an exterminator.
Contact local pest control – Some exterminators will refer bee calls to beekeepers. Introduce yourself.
Set up bait hives – Empty boxes with old comb and lemongrass oil attract scout bees. Place them around your area before swarm season. Guide to bait hives.
Swarm season timing – Spring (April-June in most areas) is peak swarm time. Be ready and available.

What About Disease?

Swarms can carry diseases and mites from their parent colony. This is a legitimate concern. To minimize risk:

Treat for varroa mites after the swarm establishes (once brood is present)—Varroa treatment guide
Inspect for signs of disease (American foulbrood, etc.) at your first inspection
Quarantine the swarm away from your other hives for a few weeks if possible
Accept that some risk is inherent with free bees—it's still usually worth it

Go Get Free Bees

Swarm catching is one of beekeeping's great pleasures. You're rescuing bees that might otherwise end up exterminated, you're getting free stock adapted to your local conditions, and you're having an adventure. Keep a nuc box and basic gear in your car during swarm season—you never know when you'll get the call.

And if your own hives swarm despite your best efforts? Now you know how to get them back.

How to Catch a Swarm of Bees

🎯 Key Takeaways

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