How to Move a Beehive

Moving a beehive sounds simple — just pick it up and put it somewhere else, right? Unfortunately, bees have an incredibly strong memory for their home location. Move a hive the wrong way and your foragers will return to where the hive used to be, clustering on empty ground while the rest of the colony starves without them.

The good news: with the right technique, you can move a hive anywhere safely. It just depends on how far you're going.

Why the 3-Foot or 3-Mile Rule Exists

Forager bees navigate using visual landmarks — trees, buildings, the angle of the sun, even the color and position of the hive entrance. They memorize these details during orientation flights and use them to find their way home.

When you move a hive a short-to-medium distance, the landscape looks similar enough that bees think they know where they are. They fly to where the hive should be based on their memory, and can't find it.

But if you move them far enough (3+ miles), the entire landscape is unfamiliar. The bees recognize they're somewhere new and perform fresh orientation flights to learn their new surroundings.

Short Moves (Under 3 Feet)

Easiest scenario. If you're just shifting the hive a foot or two — to level the stand, face a different direction, or make room — foragers will adjust without issue.

The change is small enough that returning foragers notice the slight difference and locate the entrance. You might see a bit of confusion for an hour, but they figure it out.

Long Moves (Over 3 Miles)

Straightforward — just plan carefully. Moving a hive across town or to a completely new property is actually easier than moving it across your yard, because bees will reorient to the new location.

Step-by-Step Long-Distance Move

1. Wait for evening. Move after sunset when all foragers are home. You want every bee inside.
2. Close the entrance. Use an entrance reducer stuffed with grass, foam, or mesh screen. Bees must stay inside during transport but need ventilation.
3. Secure the hive. Strap all boxes together with ratchet straps. Nothing should shift during the drive.
4. Provide ventilation. If it's warm, use a screened inner cover or prop the outer cover slightly. Bees can overheat quickly in an enclosed space.
5. Transport carefully. Drive smoothly — no sudden stops. Secure the hive in the truck bed or trailer so it doesn't tip.
6. Set up at the new location. Place the hive on its new stand before opening the entrance.
7. Open the entrance. Remove the screen/reducer and let bees exit. They'll perform orientation flights to learn the new area.

Medium Moves (The Tricky Ones)

Moving a hive 100 feet, across your property, or to a neighbor's yard is the hardest scenario. It's close enough that the landscape looks familiar, but far enough that foragers can't find the new entrance.

Option 1: Move Far, Then Move Back

The classic solution: move the hive 3+ miles away for at least 3 weeks, then move it to the final destination.

1. Move the hive to a temporary location 3+ miles away
2. Leave it for 3 weeks (long enough for all foragers to reorient)
3. Move it again to the final location

This works reliably but requires two moves and a friend with property.

Option 2: Gradual Move (2-3 Feet Per Day)

For moves under 30 feet, you can inch the hive over gradually. Move it 2-3 feet each evening after foragers return. Continue until it reaches the destination.

Time required: A 30-foot move = about 10-15 days of nudging.

Option 3: Confine and Reorient

This is more disruptive but works for medium moves:

1. Move the hive to the new location in the evening
2. Screen the entrance (not solid — they need ventilation)
3. Keep bees confined for 72 hours
4. Place branches in front of the entrance when you open it

Three days of confinement "resets" their navigation somewhat. Combined with the entrance obstruction, many foragers will reorient. You'll still lose some bees to the old location, but fewer than an immediate unconfined move.

Option 4: Accept Some Loss

If you're moving a strong colony a medium distance and don't have time for the other methods, you can simply move it and accept that foragers will return to the old location for several days.

To minimize loss, place an empty hive body at the old location. Returning foragers will cluster there. Each evening, shake them into the moved colony. After 3-5 days, most will figure it out.

Preparing for the Move

Secure Everything

• Strap boxes together — inner cover, supers, brood boxes, bottom board. Nothing should shift.
• Remove or secure any loose frames
• Make sure the bottom board is attached or strapped

Ensure Ventilation

A hive full of bees generates significant heat. If the entrance is blocked and there's no airflow, bees can overheat and die within an hour on a warm day.

• Use screen over the entrance rather than solid blocking
• Use a screened bottom board if you have one
• Consider a screened inner cover or slightly propped outer cover
• Move in cool weather when possible

Equipment to Have Ready

• Ratchet straps (at least 2 per hive)
• Entrance screen or reducer + grass
• Smoker (just in case)
• Veil and gloves
• Flashlight (you're working at night)

Best Time to Move

Time of Day

After dark — all foragers are home. If you move mid-day, you leave behind every bee that's out foraging. Wait until at least 30 minutes after sunset.

Time of Year

• Early spring: Colony is smaller, easier to move. Cool weather reduces overheating risk.
• Winter: Bees are clustered and calm. Low flight activity means less disruption.
• Summer: Large populations, heavy hives, and heat make this the hardest time. Early morning is better than evening if you must.